Everest Base Camp, Three Passes Trek, Travel
Gokyo, Everest Base Camp Honeymoon (Day Fifteen)
DESTINATION: Gokyo (over moraine)
ELEVATION: 4,750 m
ELEVATION GAIN: -190 m
DISTANCE: about 2.7 km (about 2-4 hours)
OXYGEN: 57% of sea level (previous 55%)
SIDE TREK DESTINATION: Gokyo Ri (day hike)
GOKYO RI ELEVATION: 5,357 m
ELEVATION GAIN: +607 (from Gokyo)
OXYGEN: 53% (from 57% in Gokyo village)
After a long and challenging hike to cross the Cho La Pass, we were fortunate to have the option to break up the trek into two parts: the pass crossing and the moraine over two days. Although we were determined to do the whole hike in one day so that we’d have more time in Gokyo, once we reached the village of Dragnag, I made an executive decision that I needed to sit my ass down and order some french fries (yes they had those!!!) at the tea house.
This was also when I vividly remember starving, a new feeling to me after 14 days of hiking with AMS headaches and an absolute lack of appetite. Dragnag was the first time in a while I was not forcing myself and instead ate everything I could order on the menu as my starved and exhausted (but very skinny and fit) body demanded serious refuelling. So now thinking back, I can say with absolute certainty that leaving the moraine for the second day when we were full of energy and fired up to get to Gokyo was probably one of the smartest decisions I made on this trek.
Originally the plan was to spend a night in Gokyo village to do the Gokyo lakes and Gokyo Ri hikes, but because we lost a few days on my post AMS recovery from the Kongma La Pass, we had to drop the hike to Gokyo lakes. By choosing to split the Cho La Pass into two days, we ate into our days on the trek even more but we had to see Gokyo Ri.
With a few days left until our flight from Lukla, we were on the fence of whether we should spend the night in Gokyo after hiking up to Gokyo Ri or go down as much as we could to shorten the next day’s hike to Namche Bazaar. When we got to Gokyo, we decided to do Gokyo Ri and then walk for as long as we had daylight to Machermo (2 hrs from Gokyo) so that our trek to Namche Bazaar would be shorter the next day. Talking to a local guide helped us decide. When we asked him if it’s possible to make it from Gokyo to Namche in one day, he looked at our backpacks and said: “well… it’s possible…you look like you can do it…” which to us sounded like it will be intense so we decided we go down to Machermo, the first larger village on the way down. It was a great decision, but that also meant a very long day for us.
Crossing the moraine to get to Gokyo
We woke up that day full of energy, I for one could finally eat in the morning and what a relief that was after all those days of feeling nauseous. All in all, it took us about 2.5 hrs to cross the moraine from Dragnak to Gokyo (the path over the moraine is not very clear, but once you spot the general direction of where you have to go, it becomes easy to follow).
Walking from Dragnag to Gokyo, you’ll see the moraine, and two paths left and right, the one on the right is to Gokyo. The first little bit is super easy walking until you get to a drop that looks like a dead-end but is the start of the path. This path goes steeply down and then to the right. You’ll notice lots of fresh footsteps so follow those. The trail goes along the side (right) for a while. You’ll see a spot where the paths split between continuing straight or start crossing over (the moraine will still be on your left); keep going straight for a little longer, you’ll then see the path to cross over and onto the other side. Follow the small stone piles that locals put up to mark the path (for confused tourists like us).
Travel Tip: Watch out for icy rocks on the path. If you leave it to the morning, then you’ll have plenty of time to find your way. If you’re doing it on the same day as the Cho La Pass, then leave very early in the morning (5:30 am or so) that day so that you have enough time to get lost and find your way or just chill at a great bakery in Gokyo.
Hike to Gokyo Ri
When we got to Gokyo, we went straight to the bakery to have some tea and baked goods (I was starving). We took some photos and spotted a bakery where we got some cheese croissants for the way and asked the owner if we could leave our backpacks until we’re back (we took our valuables with us in daypacks) from the Gokyo Ri hike.
The hike up to Gokyo Ri is roughly 2 km, which took us about an hour and a half to get up there and a little less on the way down. The views from up there (Gokyo Ri) are breathtaking. It’s a challenging hike up, but it is a 110 percent worth the struggle.
The lakes make it so much more spectacular. Both my husband and I found that this hike was the highlight of our trip, and I wish we had time to explore Gokyo (next trip perhaps) for a few more days and head over the Renjo La Pass. Right there and then, we decided that we must come back and explore Gokyo Lakes trek, and spend more time in Gokyo, as it is so out of this world beautiful with its emerald lakes, yaks resting on the way up and the view of the Himalayan mountaintops.
We took a million photos at the top quickly before the clouds rolled in. It’s funny how the clouds always rolled in on us at around 1 pm or so, every day. So the window of opportunity to take those magnificent photos is pretty short if you are not up there early morning.
We had timed out way down to give us enough daylight to reach the next destination, so when all the photos were taken, we headed down, for a little break at the bakery and then a long way down.
The way down from Gokyo Ri was way easier than the way up (obviously), so it didn’t take us that long, and after being exposed to altitudes higher than Gokyo Ri, we were in perfect shape to get down quickly.
Long way down from Gokyo to Machermo
Despite being in good shape altitude-wise, we were still exhausted from having crossed the moraine in the morning and going up to Gokyo Ri the same day, and now that we had a long way down ahead of us, I was feeling a little drained. After a short break at the bakery and some coca-cola for re-fuelling, we strapped ourselves back into our heavy packs, and with a strong feeling of accomplishment and a little regret of not having enough time to explore this most beautiful place on Earth, we headed down to Machermo (we only had enough daylight time to get to that point).
Travel Tip: Don’t forget your multivitamins. I took mine for the whole duration of the trip and then on the way down, eased up on it and forgot about it completely, and coincidentally or not, got sick.
The way down to Namche Bazaar starts at the gate and signs in Gokyo that are hard to miss. After a few last photos in Gokyo, we finally started the hike to Namche. Despite the long hike ahead, it felt so good to know that we were now on the way down and ahead of us was a long but pleasant path filled with alpine vegetation and no more boulders to cross (little that I knew at the time).
At the same time, though, my heart was aching as we left this wonderful place, we didn’t get a chance to explore. It was on this descent that I felt how tired I was. The clouds have descended as they always do in the afternoon, so there was no sightseeing anymore. It felt more like we were walking through an enchanted path, a little spooky but safe.
After a long (very long) walk down, reasonably easy though, we passed one village on our way down but didn’t stop there as we were set on reaching Machermo. This was the first time we hiked this late, and the path was deserted. Aside from a few locals who make this trek daily, we met no other hikers and got some “what are you doing here so late” looks from the locals.
I can’t tell you much about Machermo as we didn’t explore it and only got there at sunset and it became pitch black almost instantly (a common occurrence in the mountains, which is why you should always start early). We stayed in the second lodge we saw, the Yeti Lodge, that looked populated and yay for us, they had a room and a warm resto for dinner.
Travel Tip: Pack a small hand cream and a lip balm. A combination of dry cold mountain air, wind, and a runny nose will leave your skin flaky and hurt, so a face and hand cream along with a good SPF and a regular lip balm will be your best friends. You can buy NIVEA cream travel size pack in most stores on the trek, but most places don’t sell sunscreen. For lip balm, we had VICHY Ideal Soleil and Burt’s Bees peppermint. Whatever you prefer is up to you, but I highly recommend those two pieces of skincare.
It was our first celebratory “on the way down” dinner. Most other travellers were on their way up (from the other side), so our table neighbours were eagerly listening to the story of our journey, and we were sharing our experience and sharing what we’ve learned on the way. Sick and sunburnt in the face, it was time for our celebratory whiskey cheers, and man, it felt good! Still no meet though as it’s advised against past Namche, but I was excited about having a well-deserved burger and a beer at our favourite Kangri Resort teahouse where a room was waiting upon our return.
The following morning we got up early excited for finally reaching Namche, thinking it will only get more leisurely and less adventurous from here but quickly discovered otherwise.
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Everest Base Camp Trek Series:
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- Day 1 – Toronto to Kathmandu
- Day 2 – Exploring Kathmandu
- Day 3 – Kathmandu to Lukla
- Day 4 – Namche Bazaar
- Day 5 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
- Day 6 – Tengboche to Pangboche
- Day 7 – Pangboche to Dingboche
- Day 8 & 9 – Dingboche to Chuchung
- Day 10 – Chuchung to Lobuche (over the Kongma La Pass)
- Day 11 – Lobuche (and the Italian Pyramid)
- Day 12 – Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp
- Day 13 – To Kala Patthar and Dzongla
- Day 14 – To Dragnak (over Chola Pass)
- Day 15 – Gokyo (with Gokyo Ri ascent)
- Day 16 – Back to Namche Bazaar
- Day 17 – Namche Bazaar to Lukla
- Day 18 – Lukla to Kathmandu
- Day 19 – Kathmandu to Toronto
