Everest Base Camp, Three Passes Trek, Travel
Lukla to Kathmandu, Everest Base Camp Honeymoon (Day Eighteen)
DESTINATION: Kathmandu
ELEVATION: 1,400 m
ELEVATION GAIN: -1,460 m
DISTANCE: 138 km (30-minute flight)
OXYGEN: 85% of sea level (previous 72%)
This was our last day in the Everest Region, and the only thing we planned for that day was getting from Lukla to Kathmandu. I’ve got to admit; I was somewhat nervous about taking the flight back from Lukla, considering it’s the most dangerous airport in the world and all. I’ve seen some YouTube videos of the plane taking off and dropping from the take-off lane into the air, then picking up and flying off. It didn’t look like that much fun.
Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
For some reason, I also thought that since we’re not hiking for eight hours today, and that this is our last day that our adventures are over. My selective memory somehow blocked out the endless wait at the Kathmandu airport on our way here.
That morning, we were a little too enthusiastic about getting to the airport early to make sure we leave on the same day. We thought that if you show up earlier and stand right next to the Summit Air booth (our airline), we’ll be able to leave on time or at least not too long after our scheduled flight.
Our lodge was right across from the airport, so we packed up, had breakfast and went straight to the airport for 8:30 am (our flight was scheduled for 10:00 am). As with our previous airport experience, when on our way to Lukla, it seems to be the rule that until the airline rep writes down a flight number on your ticket, you’re not getting on any flights, regardless of what it says on your plane ticket.
Travel Tip: Flight cancellations are common in Lukla. Due to the unpredictable weather conditions, and being a pretty dangerous airport with a super short runway, they take rain warnings very seriously. So when you arrive in Lukla from Namche or your other destination on your way down, inquire at your airline booth’s about the flight status. They’re all located in front of the airport. It’ll give you a good idea if you should take a helicopter in the morning instead of waiting for your flight.
Flight Cancellations in Lukla
On your way down to Lukla, all the trek paths are merging, so you’ll meet people you’ve been seeing on your trek as everyone has a similar number of days. We became friends with a speedy group of guys from Kazakhstan on our trek. They got to Lukla a little earlier and suggested we inquire about our flight status as well. Their airline guy told them that the weather is not looking good for tomorrow, and if they’re not on a flight before noon, they’re not leaving that day. For those guys, that was a minor inconvenience as they weren’t pressed for time. For us, on the other hand, this was a significant issue as our flight was leaving within the next 48 hours. We inquired as well and were told to check in the next day for a better read.
Flights Don’t Leave on Time From Lukla
We foolishly thought we would leave no later than two-three hours after our flight’s scheduled departure time, but we were wrong. Here’s what happened: we got to the airport at 8:30 am thinking we’d leave at 10:00 am as planned if we get there early. Despite running after airport reps and asking them to put us on the flight, we got nowhere. Planes were coming and leaving steadily until lunchtime, but then stopped altogether. Only helicopters operate when it rains in Lukla as Kathmandu is very strict regarding bad weather. At 1:30 pm, we finally got an airport rep to scribble number 11 on our tickets, which means we now had to pass security and then go to our gate (the one and only). Happy that we’re getting on a plane because of that scribble, we passed security, found seats and settled in.
Lukla Airport Gets Pretty Cold and Humid
Potentially due to bad scheduling, the tiny airport gets very crowded, and there are no seats to settle in, so most people will be sitting on the floor, on their bags, or get creative. However, this is to be expected of a tiny airport on a mountain in Nepal. The lack of chairs though, is not the main issue; the most annoying thing is that it’s freezing and humid, which gets worse when it rains. The little kiosque located in the waiting room after you pass security conveniently sells instant noodle soups that are such a luxury when you’re hungry and want to warm up.
All Lukla-Kathmandu Flights Get Canceled When It Rains
The rain didn’t stop, and the flights didn’t resume. Our happiness of passing the security disappeared when an hour passed, and not a single plane landed in Lukla. I enjoyed my noodle soup, but my hiking boots were so cold and humid that I sat there, shivering, unable to warm up. Once you pass through security, they don’t let you out, so we couldn’t ask what’s happening with our flight. Earlier that morning, we inquired about the possibility of getting on a helicopter, but we decided to wait a little longer before booking it. We were hoping the flights would leave. At around 3:30 pm, the Summit Airline rep yelled into the crowd that all flights were cancelled that day and that the request came from Kathmandu, and no planes will be leaving that day.
Helicopters Fly to Kathmandu in the Rain
After the cancellation, most people went back to their lodge, hoping the following day, the weather clears. However, we didn’t want to take a chance, and we didn’t have enough time to do that, so we inquired about taking a helicopter to fly out before it gets dark. You can ask your airline rep for a heli option, and they’ll be happy to take you to Kathmandu on a helicopter, but it’s an expensive ride.
Travel Tip: Wanted to share how the helicopter pricing works. When you’re inquiring when flights are still possible from Lukla to Kathmandu, you can find a deal for USD 250 per person. The airport closes at five in the afternoon because they don’t fly in the dark due to low visibility. When we booked our helicopter flight back, immediately after all flights were cancelled, we had to pay USD 450 per person. Some people on the same heli flight with us paid USD 550 per person. So as you can see, if you plan in advance, a heli ride could be a reasonably priced option.
After asking about a heli ride back to Kathmandu, our Summit Airline rep left and said to wait until he calls us. He then came back ten minutes later, picked us up from the airport lounge, and went outside to pick up our bags lined up outside. We got our bags and followed the guy through small streets and into some the helipad area. Once at the heli waiting area, we were told to go to the nearby teahouse, get tea and something to eat, rest and wait for our flight. The estimated wait time was about an hour. So we went in to warm up.
Travel Tip: Your heli flight payment has to be in cash. They don’t take visa for the helicopter payment, so if you don’t have enough US dollars or Nepali rupees, you can take the money out from the bank that’s next door. That process is also pretty long as you need to go through one person checking your passport and then scanning your credit card, and then you go to another person who gives you cash. This may take up to 15 minutes, so if you don’t have enough cash, don’t wait until it’s your time to fly out, or you may lose your spot.
When at the teahouse, the guy that told us to wait came by to tell us what details we needed and how much it will cost us (USD 450 per person). We didn’t have enough cash, so we had to take it out at the nearby bank and pay a 5% fee to the bank to withdraw cash. The wait at the bank takes a long time, too and considering that there is only a limited number of helicopters flying out per day (they also don’t fly once it’s dark), if you take too long, you lose your spot. The good news is that the heli operators want the extra cash, so they’ll make sure to stick you in. We got our money and rushed back to the teahouse, where we had to be picked up when it was our turn to board.
Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu is about 30 minutes
Once you pay your guy, the wait is another 20 minutes at the heliboarding. The boarding happens very quickly, so keep your bags close and be ready to run. The helicopters were flying right into the backyard of the teahouse where the helipad is. You’re advised to duck and cover your head with your arms when the helicopter is landing, then quickly board and take off. After that point, you can relax and enjoy the views of the mountains you’re leaving on your way to Kathmandu. About 30 minutes later, you’ll be dropped off in Kathmandu and take a quick bus ride to the airport. Fun fact: we wanted to get a receipt of our helicopter flight to claim for our travel insurance, so we tried to ask the Sumit Air rep at the Kathmandu Airport about the receipt. He looked at us, then picked up a phone and laughed with someone on the other end of that line for a long time. Then said we’ll get it by email. Obviously, we didn’t have high hopes to get a receipt printed in Kathmandu, and as expected, we did not receive anything over email.
Accommodation in Kathmandu
As this was our honeymoon, for both hotels in Kathmandu, we booked the two best-reviewed hotels. On our way back, that was Hotel Himal Ganesh. I was delighted to come back to a beautiful sanctuary in the middle of Thamel. As soon as we got to the hotel, we went to the restaurant to grab a cold one and have some well deserved decadent dinner. Our table neighbours asked us about the trek as they were on their first night in Kathmandu doing the same hike we just completed, and we gladly shared our experience.
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Everest Base Camp Trek Series:
View All Posts
- Day 1 – Toronto to Kathmandu
- Day 2 – Exploring Kathmandu
- Day 3 – Kathmandu to Lukla
- Day 4 – Namche Bazaar
- Day 5 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
- Day 6 – Tengboche to Pangboche
- Day 7 – Pangboche to Dingboche
- Day 8 & 9 – Dingboche to Chuchung
- Day 10 – Chuchung to Lobuche (over the Kongma La Pass)
- Day 11 – Lobuche (and the Italian Pyramid)
- Day 12 – Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp
- Day 13 – To Kala Patthar and Dzongla
- Day 14 – To Dragnak (over Chola Pass)
- Day 15 – Gokyo (with Gokyo Ri ascent)
- Day 16 – Back to Namche Bazaar
- Day 17 – Namche Bazaar to Lukla
- Day 18 – Lukla to Kathmandu
- Day 19 – Kathmandu to Toronto
